Don Pedros Umina owner Emma Coutet-Morris places her hand against the boldly coloured walls and bright Mexican artwork on the restaurant’s rear brick wall on West St, Umina, and reflects glowingly on the business’s first month, which attracted over 2,000 diners.

“This wall here reminds me of the first ever Don Pedros we owned, back in Paddington. I always get a real buzz out of hand painting the place with my team – and bringing the same Don Pedros ‘fun dining’ vibe up from Sydney’s eastern suburbs to Umina,” Emma said.

Facing Norman St Umina, the cantina-style establishment is triangulated by Copperpot Indian and Umina Asian Noodle – and brings fun Mexican fare to the sedate retail strip.

‘Fun dining’ is what’s on offer at Don Pedros; the reggaeton is pumping out in the open-plan dining area, and tables are intentionally placed cheek by jowl. 

“We like the space filled with noise – in fact, we encourage people to mingle, although the tables are near each other, the music drowns out neighbouring conversation.

“If you come here expecting something different, you will be surprised. If you want somewhere quieter, the fiesta room overlooking the rear courtyard is a better spot for you.”

Kitschy cute décor items cover the walls, as well as bright paintings and canvases of old Mexico and fun, colourful artworks mailed from Mexico by Juan Alvarez, the original co-founder of Don Pedros in Paddington.

Don Pedros Umina manager Sebastian Perez-Luna warmly greets diners at the glass front door. Sebastian and his young, motivated team-in-training is supported by Jay Domansky (of Amalfi Pearl Beach).

People with a penchant for dining with a crowd can order a freshly-made taco platter with eight tortillas and add a second protein (there’s fish, prawn, crab, pork, or lamb) by paying an extra $10. 

Vegetarians and vegans are catered for with cauliflower, or pepe (roasted pepper strips, black beans, guacamole, and corn), and mushroom options, made to Mexican recipes of chef Alvarez’s late mother. Tacos can be purchased in handy single serves. 

Popular items are the baja (pronounced ‘ba-ha’) fish tacos. Filled with a white fish lightly battered in cornflour, they are flash-fried and served with pineapple salsa and chipotle mayo.

Locally sourced meats are rubbed with herbs and spices and slow-cooked on-site.

“It’s our equivalent of traditional Mexican barbacoa-style cooking – meats were cooked for long periods over embers in a hole in the ground.”

Love a full mouth burn, or prefer to steer clear? Don Pedros’ diners have complete control of the ‘temperature’ – with eye-watering chilli sauces; for the brave, there’s the Carolina Reaper chili pepper and the full range of El yucateco sauces.

Servings of sizzling fajitas are a feast for the senses. Choose from sizzling prawns, beef, or chicken – your meats are presented on a cast iron sizzling plate, much like old-school Mongolian lamb at a typical suburban Chinese restaurant and seasoned with ‘secret herbs and spices’ along with onion and roasted peppers underneath, cooked low and slow. 

Servers gently pour lime juice onto the sizzling plate so it smokes, and the smell is tantalising. On a side plate are accompaniments like tortillas, shredded salad, cheese, and rice. This is big enough to be shared.

Those wanting to start a meal with some sharing options can go with the guacamole (served in a show-stopping molcajete), and corn chips, and pico de Gallo (Mexican salsa). Chargrilled corn with chipotle aioli, Mexican cheese, and lime is another showstopper.

Choriqueso (chargrilled chorizo with melted Mexican cheese and jalapeños) is popular among lovers of meat and cheese. The pork ribs are prepared with earthy-flavoured achiote, Pedro Ximenes (a sweet sherry), citrus rub, and served with corn and slaw.

Go back and try different tacos if you dare – lamb shoulder, soft shell crab, pulled pork belly, mushroom, or crispy prawns. Beers, ciders, margaritas (made with agave and top-quality tequila), and bubbles are in good supply. 

There’s even a gluten-free, corn-based beer made for Don Pedros available on tap. It’s a super light lager. A wide range of Mezcals not available in Australia is directly supplied from Mexico along with some Mexican beers.

Sweets are simple and filling. Smash a plate of sweet churros with dulce de leche, a rich, thick caramel-like sauce made from slow-heating sweet milk. It’s a staple in Mexican and SoCal desserts such as cakes and biscuits. 

It’s common in Spanish diets, too, where it’s known as manjar (pronounced man-har). For the seriously sweet tooths wanting something a little more familiar, nab a Nutella quesadilla.